Why Grow Peas
While peas might not score high on the list due to their low market price—especially frozen varieties—they are incredibly delicious when eaten fresh from the garden. Their sweet flavour makes them one of the first delightful tastes of summer in spring, prompting us to grow varieties like mange tout and sugar snap peas.
How Many to Plant
It's easy to end up with an abundance of peas, and since processing and freezing them isn’t worthwhile for us, we prefers to sow multiple small successions. A single row of peas, 1 metre long, is usually sufficient for two people, providing plenty for family as well.
Favourite Varieties
There are four main types of peas suited for different uses:
- Mangetout Peas: Eaten when immature, allowing the tiny peas and pod to be consumed together. The Oregon Sugar Pod variety is particularly versatile, tasting great even when the peas mature.
- Sugar Snap Peas: Eaten whole, these peas allow for larger peas while still being delicious.
- Shelling Peas: Designed for pod removal, these have longer pods with more peas than sugar snaps and mangetout.
- Pea Shoots: Grown specifically for their shoots, which offer a fresh pea taste earlier in the season. Varieties like Alderman can be used or simply spare peas from other planting.
Due to the convenience of frozen peas, We now focus on growing peas for immediate fresh consumption, rarely opting for shelling varieties to avoid wasting pods. If a small quantity is desired for freezing, a few peas are left to mature.
Sowing and Harvesting Times
Peas are typically sown in early to mid-spring, growing in cooler weather for a summer harvest. Later sown peas can lose flavour and be more prone to pests like downy mildew and pea moth. However, for an earlier harvest, we recommend starting peas under cover.
Sowing Techniques
There are three primary methods for sowing peas, each with its pros and cons:
Module Sow
We prefer simplicity, using a 12-cell tray for shoots (4 seeds per cell) and a 6 or 9-cell tray for other varieties (3 seeds each). This method minimizes root disturbance and allows for easy movement.
Gutter Sow
Some gardeners opt to sow peas in a gutter, filling the bottom with compost, sprinkling peas on top, and covering them. This technique is suitable for main-crop peas but requires ample space for manoeuvring.
Direct Sow
Direct sowing is the simplest method but often less successful due to factors like soil temperature and pests. It's typically used for main crop sowing when conditions are right.
Where to Plant Peas
For early peas, we plant them under plastic at the back of low tunnels or cold frames, keeping the front space available for low-growing crops like lettuce. The covers are removed in April to allow the peas to climb.
In March, fleece is used for flexibility, allowing peas to grow beneath it for a few weeks before adding supports. The team finds that peas thrive better in cooler environments, so they don’t typically grow them to maturity in a polytunnel.
How to Plant Peas
Opinions on planting density vary widely. We suggests a medium density approach to reduce the risk of crop failure. The usual planting method involves sowing three seeds per module and expecting two to thrive. If a single row is planted at the bed's edge, it leaves space for another crop in front.
For a full bed dedicated to peas, a double row is ideal, separated by about 25 cm. Covering early peas with fleece helps protect them during establishment.
How to Feed Peas
As legumes, peas naturally fix their own nitrogen, so adding nitrogen-rich feeds may promote excessive foliage growth at the expense of pea production. A thick mulch of compost is ideal for maintaining moisture levels. Suitable options include garden compost, well-rotted manure, or mushroom compost.
How to Support Peas
Peas for shoots require no supports, while dwarf peas may benefit from light support. Most varieties grow best in rows with netting or string for support. We typically use string, looping it around wooden stakes to guide the plants as they grow.
Dealing with Pests, Especially Pea Moth
The main pest concern for peas is the pea moth, which lays eggs on pea flowers. The caterpillars tunnel into the pods, feeding on the peas. To combat this, we sow peas early to ensure they flower before the moths become active.
We recommend sowing early crops in January or February under low tunnels and March under fleece to harvest before moth activity peaks. Fortunately, other pests have not been an issue for us.
What to Plant Before and After Peas
Peas can be planted after a variety of crops, such as winter lettuce or spinach. After harvesting peas, options include French and runner beans or kale, depending on timing.
Interplanting with Peas
Avoid planting onions near peas, as they release chemicals that hinder nitrogen fixation. Low-growing crops like lettuce and spinach work well alongside peas, benefiting from the shade provided in mid-summer.
Removing Peas
When supported by posts and string, removing peas is straightforward. We snip the stems just below the soil surface and cuts the support strings, allowing the peas to fall into a heap for composting. Any remaining peas can germinate or decompose in the compost. After removing the plants, the area is mulched with fresh compost, ready for the next crop, often lettuce.
