Why Grow Chard and Perpetual Spinach
Wellies and Waxjackets uses a rating system to determine what to grow, considering factors such as taste, health benefits, cost, yield, harvest period, and organic availability. Chard ranks highly in this system for its beauty, prolific nature, and health benefits, though it can be unpredictable, especially if sown too early or stressed by summer heat. It’s especially valuable in summer when traditional spinach bolts and works well as a year-round companion to spinach, particularly its stems, which are excellent for stir-fries.
How Many to Grow?
Chard offers a continuous harvest, allowing for one leaf to be picked at a time over an extended period. For those using leaves in salads or small quantities for cooking, around two plants per person may suffice. However, for more frequent use, such as in smoothies or when wilting down, five plants per person might be necessary. Typically, 0.5m² of chard per person is sufficient.
Growing for Cooking or Salads
Chard can be grown for two purposes: large leaves and stems suitable for cooking or smaller, tender leaves for salads. For juicing or smoothies, either size works. When growing for salads, it’s best to plant 2-3 seedlings per module and space them 8 inches apart. For larger leaves, only 1-2 seedlings should be planted with a spacing of 12 inches.
Suitability for Different Growing Environments
Chard thrives in full sun or light shade and can be grown in containers, provided they are well-watered. Adequate watering is crucial in full sun to prevent stress-induced bolting during hot, dry spells.
Lifecycle
Chard is typically sown from spring to early autumn, survives winter with small harvests, and grows vigorously again in early spring, eventually going to seed in mid-spring. With careful planning, it’s possible to have chard available most of the year, or even year-round, by sowing early and replacing plants as they bolt.
Sowing and Harvesting Periods
Chard is a versatile and nutritious crop worth the effort for year-round availability. An alternative approach is to grow chard from summer until mid-spring while using early beetroot and their chard-like leaves in late spring.
First Earlies (Sow Mid-January for Early April Harvest)
This sowing is not recommended unless planning for it to bolt and be replaced by late spring. However, if chard is desired year-round, this option can work, particularly for those who enjoy chard in salads. It requires minimal space and can be finished in time for summer crops like melons and peppers. Starting this chard under grow lights and in a cold frame, low tunnel, polytunnel, or greenhouse is essential.
Second Earlies (Sow in Mid-February and Again in April for Late April Harvest)
Similar to the first earlies, this option is best if planned for bolting. For salad enthusiasts, it takes up little space and is ready for summer crops. Start indoors and move to a bright, frost-free location under cover for optimal growth.
Early Main Crop (Sow in Mid-April for Summer Harvest)
Sowing too early in spring can lead to bolting in summer, which can be planned for if necessary. For a full six-month harvest, mid-April is ideal, especially in non-sandy soils. Those with sandy soils should consider a later main crop due to potential water and heat stress. Germinate indoors before transferring to a frost-free greenhouse or polytunnel.
Main Crop (Sow Late June or Early July for Late Autumn/Early Spring Harvest)
This later sowing is less likely to bolt as it is typically planted in cloudier and wetter conditions. It is expected to survive winter and provide early spring harvests, though new growth may be limited during winter. Covering plants before the first frost helps maintain heat for winter growth.
Late Crop (Sow Early September for Winter Harvest of Salad Leaves)
This is an experimental sowing date aimed at producing a mix of Bull’s Blood beetroot, chard, and perpetual spinach for tender winter leaves. Growing in a cold frame or low tunnel, and managing the plants carefully will help deter slugs and snails. For salad leaves, 8-inch spacing is recommended, with 1-2 plants per module due to fierce winter light competition.
Recommended Varieties
Wellies and Waxjackets has limited experience with chard varieties but recommends Bulls Blood beetroot, as it grows similarly and belongs to the same family.
How to Sow
Chard seeds are clusters, allowing for 1-3 seedlings to grow from a single seed. For 1-2 seedlings, sow one seed per station; for 3-4 seedlings, sow two seeds. There are three main sowing methods:
- Sow direct
- Sow into pots, prick out after 7-10 days into modules
- Sow direct into modules
Sow Direct
Sowing direct is not advised unless under cover, as it is less predictable and occupies valuable bed space for several weeks. Instead, consider using that space for crops like head lettuce.
Sow into Pots, Prick Out After 7-10 Days into Modules
This method tests seed germination effectively. Pricking out early sowings allows for burying leggy stems, leading to sturdier seedlings.
Sow Direct into Modules
If germination is successful, direct sowing into modules is effective. The number of seeds per module depends on the time of year and germination reliability. For salad leaves, 3 seedlings per module are optimal; for mature leaves, 1-2 seedlings are best. Sowing two seeds per module can mitigate the risk of bolting.
How to Prick Out/Pot On
Refer to the Wellies and Waxjackets sowing guide for details on sowing techniques and products used.
Where to Plant
In winter and early spring, chard benefits from full sun and good soil rich in compost. During late spring, summer, and early autumn, light shade is preferable.
How Many to Plant (Spacing)
Chard’s growth slows significantly in winter. Plant density should be adjusted accordingly to prevent overpopulation in spring. For winter harvesting, maintain at least 6-inch spacing for salad leaves and 12-inch spacing for mature leaves. As spring approaches, thinning can occur to allow more space for remaining plants.
How to Plant and Spacing
Chard is typically planted at 3-4 weeks old in a 20 or 40 cell tray. Care is needed when removing them from the tray due to potential leggy growth. Plant into well-composted ground, often after pepper harvests, ensuring enough depth for the module.
Using a dibber helps create holes in the ground, allowing for proper placement of the module. Water the module and repeat watering every 3-7 days, depending on temperature. Once established, watering can be reduced to weekly in spring and every two weeks in autumn. In winter, minimal watering is necessary until early February.
Protecting and Supporting Your Plants
Chard does not require support or pest protection during autumn, winter, and early spring. In April, beet leaf miner may become a problem, but a fine mesh like environmesh can help. Birds can also pose a threat, so bird or butterfly netting may be beneficial if plants are not grown under cover.
To continue harvesting through winter, adding warmth through polythene or glass significantly aids growth. Early successions benefit from wind protection and the added warmth of fleece or polythene. Wellies and Waxjackets prefers using coldframes, which have proven effective in increasing winter yields and leaf quality compared to fleece.
How to Feed and Water
Feeding is limited to planting time, applying a handful of blood, fish, and bone to the soil surface and watering it in, followed by a one-inch compost mulch. Chard requires ample water for optimal growth, similar to lettuce, at approximately 1 inch per week in spring and autumn, unless rain provides adequate moisture. In winter, watering is minimized, ensuring moisture before December.
How to Prune/Manage While Growing
No pruning is necessary, but any damaged or dead leaves should be removed to prevent issues.
How and When to Harvest
For salad leaves, harvest when they reach about 3 inches in length from 4-6 inch tall plants. Cooking leaves should be from plants that are at least 12 inches tall, with leaves measuring 6-9 inches. Harvesting can occur weekly in autumn and spring, while winter yields may be limited to one leaf per plant per week.
While larger leaves remain suitable for cooking, older stems may become stringy. Twisting leaves off at the base is preferable to avoid leaving a stem that could rot, although snipping leaves can be efficient in winter.
How to Store
After washing and spinning leaves to remove excess water, allow them to dry for 10-20 minutes before storing in airtight containers in the fridge. Chard can last over a week in good condition.
How to Eat/Cook
TBD
How to Deal with Pests and Disease
In April, beet leaf miner may affect leaves. A fine mesh can deter them. Slugs can also pose a challenge, but regular harvesting and removing damaged leaves can help minimize damage.
When and How to Remove the Plants
To remove chard, snip off the roots or twist out the root ball, with a preference for snipping just below soil level.
What to Plant Before
Spring lettuce and salad onions are often cleared in May, making it a great time to plant chard.
What to Plant After
Over-wintered chard typically finishes in spring, which is ideal for planting the first outdoor batch of brassicas. Early sowings under cover could follow with peppers or melons.
