Introduction
At Wellies and Waxjackets, runner beans hold a special place in our hearts. They’re not just prolific and versatile; they’re a culinary delight! While they freeze beautifully, we found ourselves with a freezer full of them by June, just when our fresh crops were ready. Now, we enjoy them straight from the garden, as nothing beats that fresh flavour.
Unlike French beans, we focus exclusively on climbing varieties of runner beans. While they can be grown as ground cover (though they tend to attract slugs and snails), we prefer the stunning vertical growth they offer. Climbing beans thrive best in the ground but can also flourish in large containers, allowing you to maximise your harvest in a compact space.
Why Grow Runner Beans
When selecting what to grow, I rely on a rating system that weighs several factors: taste, health benefits, cost, yield, harvest period, and organic availability. Runner beans score exceptionally well across the board. They’re delicious, relatively pricey in stores, highly prolific, and provide a steady harvest over an extended period. Plus, organic options are hard to find, making homegrown runner beans a truly rewarding choice!
How Many to Plant?
Runner beans are incredibly prolific and a favourite for preserving! For a family of four, a single 2-meter row of climbing beans should suffice, translating to about seven climbing plants per person. However, if you’re keen on freezing or drying them, consider growing two to three times this amount. We’ve found that we often don’t get around to eating frozen produce, so we’ve shifted our focus to enjoying them fresh from the garden.
Suitability for Different Growing Environments
Both climbing French and runner beans thrive in containers, but dwarf French varieties are particularly well-suited. However, yields from containers can be modest. For my early crop in the polytunnel, I prefer climbing beans, as I’ve noticed that French beans tend to yield better than runners. Regardless, both types require sizable containers; I recommend using a 50-litre container, which is the largest I can comfortably manage.
Lifecycle
Runner beans grow close to their full size before flowering. Depending on the variety, some flowers are self-fertile, meaning they don’t require insects for pollination. Notably, runner beans offer a longer harvest period compared to French beans, allowing you to enjoy their bounty for even longer!
Sowing and Harvesting Periods
Our growing season spans from early May to mid-October, starting with broad beans and concluding with runner beans. By incorporating pea and bean tips into your garden plan, you can enjoy fresh legume delights throughout the entire year!
First Earlies
Sow in Early April for Late May Harvest
I recommend sowing climbing runner beans indoors on a sunny windowsill and transplanting them 2-3 weeks later. Given the risk of frost extending into May, I keep them in my polytunnel, protected with fleece. Since their harvest period coincides with summer crop planting, I prefer using a large (50-litre) container and support them with a wigwam of canes. This early crop typically lasts around six weeks, just in time for my second early crop.
Main Crop
Sow in Mid-May for Late July Harvest
These beans are the first I sow directly outside. I usually wait until mid-May when beans are less susceptible to unpredictable April and May weather. Early sowings may yield varying results, so I find it more reliable to sow later when conditions are optimal for growth and yield.
Late Main Crop
Sow in Early July for Mid-August Harvest
French beans thrive in the warmth of mid-summer, maturing quickly for a longer harvest period. Planting directly in the ground allows for rapid germination, and using modules can give you extra time to clear previous crops.
Late Crop
Sow in Late August for October Harvest
I advise against late sowings, as beans prefer the warmth and light of summer. Although they can grow quickly in August, they may struggle to mature properly as temperatures drop in late October and November.
Recommended Varieties
Among the various runner bean and French bean options, we prefer stringless varieties, with Lady Di being a standout choice. We don’t focus on varieties meant for drying, as purchasing dried or canned beans is much easier.
Sowing Instructions
Most gardeners sow beans directly in the ground, spacing them about 6 inches apart and planting them roughly 2 inches deep. To protect against mice, consider sowing in modules indoors, then transplanting to an unheated greenhouse or tunnel after about three weeks. Sowing in modules reduces the time to germination significantly.
Planting Location
Choose a sunny, sheltered spot for planting. Prior to planting, mulch the bed with compost, and consider adding blood fish and bone to enrich the soil. It's a common misconception that beans add nitrogen to the soil; while they do form nitrogen nodules, these are depleted by the time of harvest.
Planting Guidelines
For a family of four, 1m² of dwarf beans or a 6-foot row of climbing beans is usually sufficient for fresh consumption. If you plan to freeze or dry beans, you may want to plant more.
Spacing and Support
If not sown directly, simply make a hole and place the module in it, lightly firming the soil around the plant without burying the stem. Climbing beans can be planted 6 inches apart or around the perimeter of a container, supported by canes.
Protecting Your Plants
Dwarf plants may not need support, but planting them closely can help them stay upright, especially when laden with beans.
Feeding and Watering
Beans require consistent watering, particularly climbing varieties with their large leaf area. If the soil is well-prepared with compost or well-rotted manure, additional feeding is unnecessary. However, I’ve observed fantastic results from liquid seaweed fertiliser.
Pruning and Maintenance
As the plants grow, assist them in twining around their canes using a bit of string if necessary. Mulching around the roots in July can help retain moisture. Pinching off the growing tips once they reach the top of their canes encourages bushier growth.
Harvesting Your Beans
For the best taste, harvest beans when they are young and tender (typically 8-10 inches long). Regular harvesting—at least twice a week—promotes more bean production. You can also pick smaller beans if you desire an earlier crop.
Storing Your Harvest
Store beans in their pods in the fridge for up to a week. For longer storage, blanch them first, freeze on a tray, and then bag them up.
Cooking Tips
Steamed beans make a delightful dish, but there are numerous recipes available to explore.
Dealing with Pests and Diseases
Fortunately, we generally do not experience pest or disease issues with our bean plants.
Plant Removal
When removing plants, snip them off just below the soil surface, leaving the roots to decompose and enrich the soil. If the roots interfere with subsequent crops, you may need to remove them or apply a compost mulch.
Crop Rotation
- Before planting beans: You can follow garlic, chard, brassicas, spinach, lettuce, or salad onions.
- After harvesting beans: Consider planting salad onions, garlic, broad beans, lamb's lettuce, or peas.
Interplanting Ideas
I recommend planting beans on the west/north side of a bed, with lettuce, spinach, kale, spring cabbage, and chard on the east/south side. This arrangement optimises growth and light exposure for both plants.
