Sowing and Growing Cabbage

What is Cabbage and Collards?

Cabbage is an ancient member of the brassica family, typically growing close to the ground and forming a tight head. If left too long, it will split open to reveal a large seed head, usually in spring. In contrast, collards are similar to cabbage but do not form a tight head, remaining loose-leafed throughout their life, much like kale. Some kales resemble cabbage and are useful for filling gaps when cabbage is unavailable, especially if only a few leaves are needed.

When picked young, all types of cabbage can be consumed as loose leaves; however, this practice is rare, except for spring cabbages, which are often referred to as "spring greens."

Unique Growing Techniques

Wellies and Waxjackets has a unique approach to growing cabbages, particularly savoy and red cabbages. Due to limited space for planting in the ground during autumn for a spring harvest, she has developed a basic cabbage sequence:

• Early Spring: Harvesting the last of the savoy and red cabbage heads.
• Spring Progression: Harvesting loose-leaf spring cabbages, savoy leaves, and kale.
• Mid to Late Spring: Spring cabbages begin to heart up, with early savoys ready for harvest toward the end of spring, followed by early red cabbages, which continue until August.
• August Onwards: Red cabbages are ready again, with two successions lasting through winter alongside savoys.

From this point forward, all types of cabbage will be grouped together, with specific types and their uses broken down as necessary.

Why Grow Cabbage?

Despite being inexpensive to purchase and sometimes available organically, cabbages have long growing periods.

While lettuce, kale, or spinach might yield £20-30/m², cabbage yields are closer to £10/m². However, there are compelling reasons to grow cabbage:

1. Red cabbage and savoy are extremely healthy.
2. Cabbage is available during late autumn, winter, and spring, when other leafy brassicas may be scarce.
3. Cabbage is versatile in cooking.
4. Cabbages planted in February are well-established before slugs appear.
5. Early cabbages start to heart up before cabbage aphids and whiteflies become a problem, resulting in more reliable hearts than kale.

While cabbage has its benefits, if space is limited, it may be better to grow kale, Brussels sprouts, or kalettes for nutritious food that can be harvested over an extended period. Other options like calabrese and purple sprouting broccoli also provide cabbage-like leaves, and perennial kale offers year-round supplies of similar foliage.

Growing Methods

To address the long growing periods, cabbages are traditionally sown in a seed bed away from the main vegetable plot, allowing space for faster-maturing crops like lettuce. For autumn-sown cabbages, the following method is recommended:

1. Start indoors in pots for the first few weeks, then prick out.
2. Prick out into 6 or 9 cell trays for 2-3 weeks under grow lights.
3. Move into a polytunnel or greenhouse to protect from hard frosts, keeping them frost-free is ideal.
4. Continue growing in the greenhouse/polytunnel and pot on into 11cm pots until planting time in January or February.

How Many to Grow?

Growing cabbage can be tricky, as different types are sown at various times and require different amounts of space. Harvesting is typically done one at a time, and they don't last long after harvest. A cabbage-loving individual might need around 25 plants per year, which takes up considerable space. Thus, it may be more efficient to grow Brussels sprouts, kalettes, and kale instead, as they provide a continuous harvest.

For a balanced approach, Wellies and Waxjackets would recommend:

• 20% spring cabbage (often grown in spare ground over winter).
• 10% Preludium savoy cabbages for late spring harvest.
• 20% red cabbages sown in September for summer consumption.
• The remainder sown in May, mixing red and savoy cabbages.

In total, it’s advisable not to dedicate more than 1m² per person for cabbages, unless one is less interested in consuming other brassica leaves.

Suitability for Different Growing Environments

Like all brassicas, cabbage tolerates some shade but thrives in full sun. Its long growing period allows it to benefit from sunny summers and adapt to more shaded conditions in autumn and winter. While not ideal for container growing, it is still possible with adequate light, space, water, and nutrients.

Cabbages flourish in neutral to slightly alkaline soil, similar to most vegetables, so no special preparation is needed unless dealing with club root issues.

Types of Cabbage

Cabbage, like most brassicas, will naturally go to seed in spring. However, summer and autumn cabbages will typically be consumed or damaged by pests before this occurs. Winter and spring cabbages may sometimes go to seed before they can be harvested. Once a cabbage splits and the seed heads emerge, the heart needs to be used within days to avoid spoilage. Interestingly, the seed heads are delicious, often preferred over purple sprouting broccoli.

Spring Cabbage

Spring cabbage is generally sown in the summer or autumn of the previous year, with several techniques to maximise yield:

• Plant at double density in late summer, removing every other plant in September to either eat or transplant.
• Sow two successions in mid and late summer to mitigate the risk of all plants going to seed if weather conditions are not favourable.
• Start another succession in September, growing it under cover until February to plant out as space becomes available.
• Planting out at high density allows for some plants to be harvested as spring greens in March while others heart up.
• With grow lights, spring cabbages can be started as late as November, growing them frost-free until February, allowing for an earlier harvest.

Summer Cabbage

Summer cabbages are sown in late winter or early spring, with early spring providing the most reliable results. Early sowings of red cabbage may yield autumn harvests, but most summer cabbages are green, often used in salads and coleslaw.

At Wellies and Waxjackets, true summer cabbages are avoided in favour of savoy and red cabbages. Early varieties like Preludium are great for harvest in May and June, while red cabbages are sown in September, harvested in late June, ensuring a steady supply.

Autumn Cabbage

Red cabbages are the preferred choice for autumn due to their taste and health benefits. They can remain in the ground for an extended period, often being harvested around Christmas after a March sowing. If hard frost threatens, it’s advisable to harvest them for storage in a cool location.

Winter Cabbage

During winter, loose-leaf brassica options like kalettes, Brussels sprouts, and kale can be in short supply, making winter cabbages a valuable addition. Savoy cabbages can be started in May and planted after garlic harvests, while later batches of red cabbage can be sown in May for December harvest. Since red cabbages tend to rot in winter, early December harvesting is recommended, along with their roots, for potting in a greenhouse or polytunnel.

Collards

Collards are loose-leafed cabbages harvested continuously from the lower leaves. Their loose leaves are generally healthier than those of traditional cabbages. While the taste varies by variety, collards can substitute for cabbage in many recipes.

Collards can be sown in spring and late summer for a prolonged harvest period. Although they have been grown in the past, We prefers cabbage-like kales, traditional kales, Brussels sprouts, and kalettes for their culinary offerings.

Sowing and Harvesting Periods

When it comes to cabbages, We prefer to stick with a consistent succession rather than solely relying on seasonal planting.

First Early Cabbages (Sown in Mid-September for Harvest in Early to Mid-Spring)

Spring cabbages are a vital part of the diet, coming to the rescue during the ‘hungry gap’ in mid-spring to early summer. Traditionally, two sowings are done: the first at the end of July and the second at the start of August. This method helps to mitigate the risk of all plants bolting if the weather does not cooperate. Sown in September or early October, they should be planted at double density. When space becomes available, every other plant can be transplanted, usually in November.

A new approach: We now start our spring cabbages in mid-September indoors. After pricking out, the seedlings remain under grow lights for 2-3 weeks until they develop strong true leaves. They are then moved to a frost-free greenhouse or polytunnel, where they are potted on as necessary until February, when they are planted out after lettuce for a spring harvest. Both traditional pointy-headed spring cabbage and savoy cabbage are grown, with the latter yielding loose leaves that tend to bolt before forming a proper head.

As other brassica crops dwindle, We assess the cabbages and select a few to leave to heart up, harvesting the rest for their lovely loose leaves. Some plants may go to seed, providing edible florets.

Second Early Cabbages (Sown in October or Early November for Harvest in Late Spring)

While this succession may appear similar to the first, it offers more reliable large heads, although the harvest occurs later in spring or very early summer. Due to limited space in September/October, We take advantage of the winter months when space becomes available from harvesting lettuce, beetroot, carrots, and parsnips. Starting the second early cabbages in October and overwintering them in 4-inch pots in the polytunnel allows for planting in February, ideally under plastic or fleece for a couple of months, ensuring they are ready for the hungry gap.

Summer Crop (Sown in Mid-September for Harvest in Summer)

While many opt for traditional round-headed cabbages, We prefer round-headed red cabbages for their superior health benefits. Unfortunately, red cabbages are typically only harvestable from August to December. Sowing in mid-September yields small heads in early June, progressively larger through June and July. To compensate for the smaller head size, the plants are packed closely together.

Early Main Crop Cabbages (Sown in Early February for Harvest in Late May-June and August-September)

This succession addresses two key gaps in cabbage availability: after spring cabbages finish in late May and before the first red cabbages are ready in mid-late June, as well as after early red cabbages are finished in late July and before main crop red cabbages are ready in autumn.

Recommended varieties for this succession include:

1. Preludium: A small but very early savoy cabbage producing lovely heads by late May.
2. Red Feugo: Available slightly earlier than Red Drumhead from an early February sowing in August.

Both varieties benefit from germination indoors and being kept under grow lights for a few weeks before moving to a frost-free greenhouse in March. For those unable to do this, harvests may be delayed by a couple of weeks.

Main Crop Cabbages (Sown in Mid-March for Harvest in Autumn)

In autumn, We focus on red cabbages due to their health benefits, taste, and resistance to pests, although young plants can fall prey to cabbage aphid. Autumn is the peak time for red cabbages, providing a valuable source as other brassicas like kalettes and Brussels sprouts taper off.

Winter Crop Cabbages (Sown in Late Spring for Late Winter Harvest)

As winter approaches, red cabbage hearts risk rotting, prompting a shift to winter cabbages, with savoys being the preferred choice. These complement the Brussels sprouts and kalette flower sprouts still being harvested.

Recommended Varieties

Wellies and Waxjackets recommend a selection of cabbages and cabbage-like kales. For summer cabbages, it is suggested to consult the RHS for more specific recommendations.

How to Sow

Seeds should be sown multiple per module in a 6-cell tray, ideally filling the tray with six different varieties to encourage a diverse diet. Seeds should be sown about 1/2 inch deep and lightly watered.

How to Prick Out/Pot On

Seedlings should be pricked out into modules when about a week old, ideally before true leaves form. The module tray size depends on the succession:

Succession	Module Tray	Notes
First Earlies	9-cell tray	Pot on into 11cm pots in late autumn
Second Earlies	6-cell tray	Pot on into 11cm pots in late autumn
Early Main Crop	6-cell tray	Pot on into 11cm pots in late autumn
Main Crop	6-cell tray	No need for potting on
Winter Crop	6-cell tray	No need for potting on

Where to Plant

Cabbages thrive in full sun or light shade. Firm ground is beneficial, but Wellies and Waxjackets prefer to firm individual seedlings without walking on the soil. Cabbages prefer neutral to slightly alkaline soil.

How Many to Plant

Cabbages respond well to varying planting densities; closer spacing yields smaller heads and loose leaves. Experimenting with spacing between 12-14 inches for smaller heads and leaves and 18-24 inches for larger heads is encouraged.

How to Plant

For detailed guidance on planting techniques and products, refer to Wellies and Waxjackets' planting guide.

Protecting and Supporting Your Plants

Due to their short stature and large heads, cabbages are challenging to support. However, protection is essential. First and second earlies benefit from polythene, early main crops from fleece, and main and late crops from nets to protect against birds and butterflies.

How to Feed and Water

A good mulch of 2 inches of compost before planting is ideal, and a bit of extra blood fish and bone may be beneficial. While additional feeding after planting isn’t necessary, extra nitrogen is often recommended.

Water well during planting and provide approximately 1 inch of water weekly once established, as cabbages are fast-growing and nutrient-hungry plants.

How to Prune/Manage While Growing

Lower leaves should be removed when they touch the ground to prevent slug damage, and any leaves showing signs of fungal infection should also be taken off.

How and When to Harvest

Loose leaf varieties can be harvested little and often. It's best to sample leaves at various stages of maturity to determine preferred sizes for each variety and time of year. Smaller leaves are generally favored for light steaming.

When removing cabbages, Brussels sprouts, or kalettes, cutting the stem will likely encourage new growth, whether new stems or small cabbages.

How to Store

For those with cold and moist root cellars, cabbages can be stored for months. In the absence of ideal conditions, a cool shed may work for a month if cabbages are wrapped in something moist. In fridges, loose leaves should be stored in sealed containers for about a week. Red cabbages can last a couple of weeks in the fridge, while other varieties typically last about a week.

How to Eat/Cook

Collards offer endless cooking possibilities—soups, stews, stir-fries, and casseroles make them a versatile choice in the kitchen.

How to Deal with Pests and Disease

Wellies and Waxjackets provide guidance on pests and diseases. Loose leaf brassicas are prone to whitefly, making them less appealing than cabbages, which are more resistant once they begin to heart up.

Maintaining a mix of hearting and loose leaf varieties can help build resilience against pests. Cabbage root fly poses a risk to all brassicas, but preventative measures like netting, collars, or watering with protective nematodes can be effective.

When and How to Remove the Plants

When removing plants, it's ideal to cut the stem just below the soil surface and leave the roots unless there is club root or they will interfere with future planting.

What to Plant Before

Avoid following brassicas with more brassicas. Recommended preceding crops depend on the succession:

Succession	Plant After These Crops	Notes
First Earlies	Lettuce, peas, dwarf French beans, onions, beetroot, late broad beans	Cabbages can be planted while peas continue cropping
Second Earlies	Parsnips, carrots, beetroot, climbing beans
Early Main Crop	Winter spinach, winter lettuce, field beans, leeks	Field beans leave nitrogen in the soil if cut back before flowering
Main Crop	Early spring lettuce, spring spinach, spring onions
Winter Crop	Late spring/early summer lettuce, early onions, garlic, early broad beans

What to Plant After

Avoid following brassicas with brassicas. The preceding crops vary by succession:

Succession	Plant Before These Crops	Notes
First Earlies	Potatoes, broad beans, leeks, sweet corn, carrots
Second Earlies	Potatoes, broad beans, leeks, sweet corn, carrots
Early Main Crop	Potatoes, broad beans, leeks, sweet corn, carrots
Main Crop	Potatoes, broad beans, leeks, sweet corn, carrots
Winter Crop	Potatoes, broad beans, leeks, sweet corn, carrots

Popular Cabbage Varieties

Wellies and Waxjackets recommend growing the following popular cabbage varieties:

• Kalettes: A hybrid of kale and Brussels sprouts, kalettes are delicious, producing sweet leaves and florets with a nutty flavor. Great for stir-fries or roasted, they can be eaten raw or cooked.
• Savoy Cabbage: Ideal for winter, it has tender, crinkly leaves and is great in soups or braised.
• Napa Cabbage: With a mild, sweet flavor, napa cabbage is perfect for stir-fries and salads.