W&W Garden · Crop guide

Potatoes.

Freshly harvested potatoes
From seed potato to supper

One of the most satisfying crops you can grow.

Choose the right varieties, get them into the ground at the right time and a few unremarkable-looking seed potatoes can turn into kilos of food hidden beneath the soil.

The complete guide

Everything you need to know about growing potatoes in Britain — choosing varieties, chitting, planting, earthing up, watering, harvesting, storing and dealing with the problems that turn up along the way.

Before you plant

Start with the potato you actually want to grow.

First earlies, second earlies and maincrop potatoes don't simply give you different varieties to choose from — they crop at different times and suit different uses. Choose your type, buy proper seed potatoes and decide whether you'll chit them before planting.

Choosing varieties

Grow for your dinner plate.

There is no single best potato. Some varieties make brilliant new potatoes, some hold together beautifully in a salad and others are worth growing for proper crisp roasties. Start with what you actually want to eat.

I want an early crop of new potatoes.
Rocket First early · Quick cropping and best enjoyed freshly lifted.
Pentland Javelin First early · A straightforward choice for boiling as new potatoes.
I'm growing in pots, bags or a small garden.
Swift First early · Compact and particularly useful where space is limited.
Charlotte Second early · A popular option for containers as well as the ground.
I want firm potatoes for salads and summer meals.
Charlotte Second early · Firm yellow flesh that holds its shape well when boiled.
Ratte Second early · An elongated salad potato valued for flavour and firm texture.
I care about roast potatoes, chips and mash.
Maris Piper Maincrop · Floury and particularly useful for chips, roasting and mash.
King Edward Maincrop · A traditional choice for roasting, baking and fluffy mash.
I want something versatile.
Desiree Maincrop · Red-skinned, yellow-fleshed and useful across a range of meals.
Kestrel Second early · More floury than a typical salad potato and useful for general cooking.
Blight resistance matters to me.
Sarpo Mira Maincrop · Often chosen for its strong resistance to potato blight.
If it's your first year

Keep it simple. Grow one early variety for fresh summer potatoes and, if you have the room, one maincrop for later meals. You don't need six different bags of seed potatoes to discover what grows well for you.

Before planting

Do you need to chit potatoes?

Not necessarily. Chitting simply means allowing seed potatoes to develop shoots before planting. It is particularly popular with early varieties and, if you choose to do it, the aim is short, sturdy shoots rather than a tangle of pale growth.

Sprouting seed potatoes arranged in wooden trays
How to chit them
01
Stand them upright.

An egg box or shallow tray works perfectly well. Put the end with the most eyes facing upwards.

02
Keep them somewhere bright.

Good natural light encourages stronger shoots rather than long, weak ones.

03
Keep them cool and frost-free.

A bright, cool room or other protected position is better than somewhere hot.

04
Wait for sturdy shoots.

Handle them carefully once shoots develop so they are not knocked off before planting.

05
Plant when the conditions are right.

Shoots appearing are not a deadline. Wait until the soil and weather are suitable for planting.

Long, pale shoots?

They have probably been kept somewhere too dark or too warm. Move the potatoes to a cooler, brighter position and handle the shoots carefully so they don't snap.

Chitting doesn't need equipment, a special propagator or much ceremony. Light, cool conditions and an old egg box will do the job.

At the garden centre

What should a good seed potato look like?

Once you've chosen a variety, don't simply grab the first bag. Start with proper seed potatoes from a reputable supplier and give the tubers themselves a quick check before they come home with you.

01

Start with seed potatoes.

Buy certified seed potatoes intended for planting rather than using ordinary supermarket potatoes.

02

Give them a squeeze.

Look for firm, healthy tubers without soft patches, mould, obvious rot or excessive damage.

03

Don't buy a fantasy allotment.

Work out how many rows, containers or potato bags you genuinely have room for before buying more seed potatoes than you can plant.

If shoots have already appeared, short and sturdy is preferable to a mass of long, pale growth.

Where are you growing?

You don't need an allotment to grow potatoes.

Give them enough soil, water and room to develop and potatoes are remarkably adaptable. The best method is usually the one that suits the space you already have.

Potato plants growing in reusable bags beside a garden path
Garden, allotment or a few containers — use the space you've got.
01

In the ground

The traditional option. Plant into prepared soil with enough room between plants for earthing up and harvesting later.

02

On the allotment

Potatoes can occupy a useful amount of ground and allow you to grow several varieties for different harvest times and uses.

03

In raised beds

A practical choice where you want good drainage, manageable soil and straightforward access when planting and harvesting.

04

In bags & containers

Useful for patios and smaller gardens. Choose a generously sized container and pay particular attention to watering.

One job worth knowing

What does “earthing up” actually mean?

As the shoots grow, draw soil up around the stems while leaving the upper leaves exposed. Repeat as the plants develop. This helps keep developing tubers covered and reduces the chance of potatoes being exposed to light and turning green.

The potato year

Ten months. One crop.

Potatoes have a wonderfully simple rhythm: choose them, prepare, plant, earth up, watch, harvest and store. Exact timings move with the weather, your part of Britain and the varieties you're growing, but this gives you the shape of the year.

Getting ready
January

Chit seed potatoes.

February

Prepare beds and growing areas.

Planting
March

Plant first earlies.

April

Plant maincrop potatoes.

May

Earth up developing plants.

Harvest begins
June

Harvest first earlies.

July

Keep watch for blight.

August

Harvest second earlies.

Main harvest
September

Lift maincrop potatoes.

October

Sort and store the crop.

Don't garden by the calendar alone

A date on a page can't see your soil or feel your weather. Use the calendar as a guide, then look at the conditions in front of you.

Trouble underground

What's wrong with my potatoes?

Not every mark means you've lost the crop. Some potato problems are largely cosmetic; others need dealing with quickly. Start with what you can actually see.

Rough, corky patches on the skin.
Likely culprit Potato scab

Scab affects the surface of the tuber and often looks worse than it is. Affected potatoes are generally still usable once the damaged skin is peeled away. Avoid adding lime before growing potatoes and keep developing tubers adequately watered in dry conditions.

Dark patches spreading rapidly through leaves and stems.
Likely culprit Potato blight

Blight can spread quickly in warm, damp weather. Remove affected foliage promptly and don't compost infected material. If the crop is badly affected, removing the haulms can help protect tubers that are still sound underground.

Holes and tunnels through otherwise healthy tubers.
Likely culprit Slug damage

Slugs can attack developing tubers underground, particularly in conditions that suit them. Harvest potatoes when they're ready rather than leaving mature tubers sitting in the soil unnecessarily.

One to remember

Green potatoes belong in the compost, not on the plate.

Tubers turn green when they're exposed to light. Keep potatoes covered while they're growing and store harvested crops somewhere dark. Don't eat potatoes that have turned green.

The good bit

When can I dig them up?

Harvest time depends on what you've planted. Earlies are grown for those first tender new potatoes; maincrop varieties are usually left longer to produce larger tubers that can be stored.

01

Know when they're ready.

First and second earlies are normally harvested while the plants are still relatively fresh, depending on the variety and when they were planted.

Maincrop potatoes stay in the ground longer. As the plants finish their season, the foliage begins to yellow and die back.

02

Lift them without spearing dinner.

Work carefully from the outside of the plant with a garden fork, loosening the soil before lifting the crop. Tubers often spread farther from the stems than expected.

Search through the loosened soil afterwards — there is nearly always one more potato hiding underneath.

03

Store the sound ones.

Potatoes intended for storage should be dry and undamaged. Put aside anything cut, badly bruised or damaged and use suitable tubers promptly rather than storing them with the rest.

Keep stored potatoes somewhere cool, dark, dry and well ventilated, and check them periodically so one deteriorating potato doesn't spoil those around it.

Worth knowing

Don't wash potatoes before storing them.

Let loose soil dry and brush it away gently. Washing introduces moisture and can reduce how well a crop keeps. Wash the potatoes when you're ready to use them instead.